Lardon My French: Philippines

It's been nothing but go-go-go for the past month now... hopping around the Philippines, Taipei, and Shanghai. It's now my last day... and I'm so sad to be leaving. I want to get in one last post before I leave here - I'm dying to get all these experiences up on the blog - so here it is. My adventures in eating BALUT.

One of my most vivid memories of the Philippines came rushing back that first night in my Lola's house. Once the sun sets, the haunting chants of the balut vendors begin. "Baluuuuut! Baluuuuut!" Like clockwork, they make their rounds through the streets pushing carts of steaming balut, or simply carrying them in a woven basket. Their calls sound the same today as they did when I was here last... 16 years ago.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with the Filipino delicacy, balut is a boiled, fertilized duck egg. To put it bluntly, it's like a hard boiled egg with a baby duck inside. The embryo is partially developed, complete with feathers and a beak. No wonder it was on Fear Factor. I'll warn you in advance, if you're planning on Googling photos of balut, I hope you have a strong stomach. In fact, just the sight of them makes me a little puke-y. I had to mentally prepare for about 6 months. No joke.

A couple weekends ago, all the cousins got together for some quality time - without the parents. The boys packed the day full of sight-seeing, shopping, movies, and street food... which in turn, meant I had to eat balut.

We didn't have enough time to go through the streets eating meat-on-a-stick and balut along with the locals, but my aunt made sure to have a heaping supply ready that night when we came home for dinner. She rounded up the vendor as he passed by and filled a wicker bowl with about 2 dozen of them. If everyone in the family was going to eat it, I had to try it. No backing out.

If you think of it as a cross between a hard-boiled egg and chicken stew, the thought of balut is a little easier to swallow. The hard things to swallow, literally, are all the little bones and feathers that you have to chomp on as it goes down. You eat everything... bones and all. And then there's the beak.

Our oldest cousin (after me), the doctor, gave us the 101 on the anatomy of balut... and how to eat it like a pro. First you crack the shell at the blunt end, and suck out the juice. Then you eat the yolk, the large and not so scary yellow part. Then, the hardest part... the embryo... with the feathers... and the beak... that's the last part to go down the hatch. GULP.

Following in his footsteps, our youngest cousin showed us all how he could stick it out with the big guys.

So after all that, the rest of us did our first round together.

And just to one up everyone, Butchoy showed us how to put some real hair on your chest.

So I did it. I may not have eaten the WHOLE thing, but I ate a few good bites of balut. It actually doesn't taste half bad... kind of good actually, no where near as bad as I imagine stinky tofu would taste. I would eat balut 1 million times before trying stinky tofu.

I'm sitting here in my Lola's living room... the breeze of a swaying fan keeping me cool-ish on this hot and humid evening. I missed this, and uncomfortably endure the 94°F with a smile. I've been in the Philippines for about two weeks now, and finally have a moment to sit down and write a little something. I've seen, experienced, and EATEN so much already! My journal is exploding with random impressions, scribbled recipes, and spur-of-the-moment sentences. I can't imagine how much I will end up writing about this trip.

I'm starting off with the 4-day road trip I just took with my family. Thirteen-deep in one van. 12 hours of driving. Lots of pee breaks. Not to mention the 6 who followed in a second van, and lastly our cousin who took the overnight bus to meet up with everyone for only one day. Whew.

We drove from Manila to the Ilocos Norte region of the Philippines. It's where my "true roots" stem from, with Sarrat as my family's hometown. We passed by all of my Lola's properties in Sarrat, and even visited the now demolished lot (right across the street from the Marcos Museum) where my great grandfather's house once stood.

We had lunch above the river where my mom, aunt, and uncles used to play in and bathe when they were younger.

Munching on Filipino empanadas and tupig - an Ilocano rice cake made by cooking a mixture of glutinous rice, buko (young coconut), coconut milk, and sugar inside a banana leaf - we beat the blazing heat by relaxing in the coolness of the flowing river.

One of the stops along our 12-hour road trip up to Ilocos Norte was in Paoay. I'm skipping to this point in my Philippine travels because it ties in perfectly with this month's Kulinarya Cooking Club theme. One of the main attractions of Paoay is Paoay Church, an over 300 year old, virtually impenetrable mass of brick and coral. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this church boasts nearly 2-meter thick stone walls and 24 massive buttresses that classify its architectural style as "Earthquake Baroque". Seriously, this thing is solid.

This month's KCC Challenge is brought to us by Lala at This Little Piggy, and April's theme is: DECADENCE. A few words immediately come to mind: over-indulgent, luxurious, gluttonous. Filipino food has been widely categorized by Western cultures as a cuisine rich in meat and rice. While there certainly hasn’t been a lack of meat and rice during my past two weeks here, there has been a wide abundance of vegetables and fruits.

To give a glimpse into both sides of the Filipino health spectrum, I give you something good and something bad, but dually decadent. Across the street from Paoay church was Herencia Café, where our herd of 20 hungry road-trippers stopped to have some dinner. The house specialty: Pinakbet Pizza.

Since my last KCC post just-so-happened to be pinakbet – this was a perfect dish to up the ante and take it to the next level. Between 7 cousins we ordered two pinakbet pizzas.

The pizza was better than we all imagined. Green beans, eggplant, okra, and tomatoes all cooked until shriveled and then piled atop a thin crispy crust and smothered with cheese.

To balance out all the “healthiness” we also ordered another over-the-top specialty, Diniguan Pizza. Diniguan is traditional Filipino dish made by stewing pig parts in it’s own blood. It may sound a little, um, how should I put it… - different - to many, and trust me, even my aunt (who is American) loved it… until we told her exactly what it was. Oops. Hehe.

The diniguan pizza was just damn naughty. A thick layer of pig’s blood was slathered over the crispy crust, topped with the stewed pork bits, melted cheese, and a healthy (haha) sprinkling of chicharonnes (crispy pork skin). I got weak in the knees before I even took a bite. I think we all went a little nuts. Everyone at the table with a camera started snapping away as if we were the paparazzi.

Final verdict? We all agreed; the pinakbet pizza was much tastier than the diniguan pizza, but both rightfully earned their spot in the decadence category.